The fantastic and frustrating world of foundation-Richmond VA Airbrush Artist Aaron Ellerbrock

Foundation can be your best friend and your worst nightmare. Who hasn't had the experience of spending an afternoon trying on brands, types, and shades, making a purchase, and then getting home and hating it? But, when you do find that perfect match it is like finding your best friend! We recently asked you to share with us some concerns you have with your foundation, and we have some suggestions. So, here goes...

"Do I need to wear a foundation?"
Bottom line answer is no. But, that is like asking, "Do I need to go to the gym?" It is a question that only you can answer for yourself. Foundation is there to help you look and feel more confident, not make you feel like you are tied down to it. Often people reserve their foundations for special events so they look a little more polished. People also will use foundation, but maybe not over the entire face; just in the areas where the skin is uneven. That is why, if you do wear it you want it to match perfectly. Don't pick one to give you a little more color (that is what a bronzer is for). So even though this sounds like an easy question, I think it is more complicated.

"How do I pick the perfect color to match my skin tone?"
This is where the trial and error process comes in. If you go to a department store and can try different foundation shades make sure you are testing it on your jaw line. Grab three shades that you think are close to your tone and do a swipe of each on your jaw. You don't want to test on your hand or wrist as you won't be wearing it there. Secondly give it a few minutes to dry down. Depending on the stability of the pigments the foundation may dry to a different tone. Don't rush this! Then, take a mirror and check yourself out in the natural light. Stores often have lighting that either casts a pink or yellow hue and that can change how the color looks in natural light. If you are just picking one up from the drugstore, this is where it gets tricky as you can't try one on usually. When you are doing this, remember that most of us have both pink and yellow in our skin. Don't get fooled by things like freckles or a little redness in the cheeks! Also, check with the store on their return policy to see if you can exchange it if the color is not right.

"I don't want to look like I am wearing foundation. What should I use?"
This is where your tinted moisturizer or BB cream comes in. You can read all about BB creams in recent blog posts. These products are wonderful because they offer a light coverage, really just something to even out the skin, but don't have a lot of texture. Texture is why we get that "made up" look. The less texture on the skin the better. Now, if you need coverage because of special concerns you may need a fuller coverage foundation for that area (and yes, having two foundations is VERY common). Also, if you are a powder foundation kind of girl, look for powders that do not have a lot of binding agents or talc in them. My favorite powder foundation is Cover FX and it has no talc in it!!

"Do you prefer a BB cream or a traditional cream foundation?"
Again, this depends on how much coverage you need. BB creams are often used as a quick fix for running around in the day time, but not so much for when you want a flawless complexion. I love them both and this is a perfect example of having two types of foundations. Use your BB cream for a day at the office, for running errands, for weekends and then use your traditional cream foundation or fuller coverage foundation for the party, the date night, or the board meeting.

"Do I need to use my regular moisturizer with SPF if I am using a BB cream?"
Not all BB creams are created equal. Many of their benefits tend to skew in one direction (ie: moisture, coverage, spf protection, etc). Also, not all BB creams have an spf, although most do. You need to make sure you are reading up about your BB cream to see what benefits you will get. In general I like to recommend that during the winter months it is probably best to continue to use your daily moisturizer under you BB cream and then in the summer you may be able to use your BB cream alone for daytime and then use a good night time moisturizer.

"What type of foundation is best for a dry skin?"
Usually drier skins like a cream based foundation, for the simple fact that they are more emollient. They have the ability to blend more easily across the skin. Often powder foundations will show up more on a dry skin (taking us back to the idea of too much texture on the skin). Again, if you love a powder use it, but make sure you are picking the right one. As far as a cream foundation, I am going to once again go back to Cover FX. They have an amazing cream foundation that can be applied as lightly as a tinted moisturizer (using their synthetic powder brush) or as beautifully as a full coverage foundation (with the traditional foundation brush).

"What is a reasonably priced foundation for an oily skin?'
This of course depends on what type of foundation you like. Powders can be great (as long as you look for non-talc ones) and liquids are beautiful (maybe go for oil free), so you need to know your preference. Although Laura Mercier tinted moisturizers have been a staple for many people, they are $43 dollars. If you want to get a similar effect but not break the bank you should take a look at Aveda Inner Light ($23) or Boots No. 7 Soft and Sheer ($9-$12). You may not get as many skin care benefits, but hey, that is what skincare is for!

"Should I put foundation under my eyes?"
My basic rule of thumb is the right tool for the right job. Foundation can always be used in a pinch, and as technology has evolved it is not as "bad" as it used to be to do this. However concealers are created a little differently as the skin around the eye is much more delicate. Also, your foundation may not be the right color to hide those dark circles. For a quick fix, when you are in a hurry sure, but when you want to make sure you are looking your best, take an extra 2 minutes and use an under eye concealer.

I hope this has been useful to you! If there are other questions you have please feel free to leave a post and we will answer them for you. Happy makeup-ing!!

I might be falling in love...with Cover FX/by Richmond Virginia Makeup Artist Aaron Ellerbrock

 

So I know I am not Oprah, but I thought I would share one of my "Favorite Things"! I often get asked what products I love to use and what makeup I think really gives a great pay off. Of course, over the years I have added or changed that list as new products are developed or as old favorites change their formulas and become less than stellar.

I now have a new favorite in the area of creating a canvas (foundations, concealors, powders, bronzers). Of course for my brides I still mostly use the OCC airbrush foundations, but for my other clients I am now recommending the Cover FX line. I can't say enough about how great this product is, especially after their recent relaunch. The line seems to have an amazing grasp on how to create foundations for everyone.

I hear over and over again "I can't find a foundation that matches my skin tone" or "It looked good when I first put it on but then later it just looked wrong". Finding the right foundation can be tricky, especially if you are just trying to pick one up at the drugstore. First and foremost, you should always match your foundation on your jaw line and make sure once it dries down, the color is perfect, meaning you don't see it on the surface of your skin.

I recenty had the great fortune to talk with the Vice President of Glodal Sales and Education for Cover FX, Alisha Gallagher. Since I have several of their products in my kit, I was thrilled to have the chance to ask her a few questions. Here are some of the highlights of our conversation.

Aaron: Tell me a little about the creator of the products at Cover FX.

Alisha: His name is Victor Casale. Previous to Cover FX he was the Chief Innovation Officer at MAC. He is the man who created such well know products as Studio Fix and Lipglass. He is so amazing because not only is he so creative but he is also a chemist! He also created a red lipstick for Madonna on her "Blonde Ambition Tour" called Russian Red. It has become an iconic color. It is very wearable for that woman who is looking for a perfect red and was worn by Michelle Williams in "My Week With Marilyn".

Aaron: Why are your products so special?

Alisha: There are three main points of difference that make us so special. First, our tag line is "Great beauty begins with a great foundation. Can't find your shade? We can!". At Cover FX we have an extensive global color shade palette. 28 shades! But what we do that is so different is we spend a lot of time making sure we focus on the undertone of the skin, not just the depth of color. So many lines have a lot of shades but they go from light to dark without altering much in the undertones. That is why foundations often seem to not match. At Cover FX we make sure we have the right blends of "N" neutral, "P" pink, and "G" golden to ensure a perfect match.
Second, our products are extremely healthy for the skin. They are free of gluten, talc, mineral oil, parabens, and fragrance. As a matter of fact they are actually vegan!
Thirdly, the products have a very high performance level. We use a high level of refined pigments in our products. This allows you to get what you are looking for without having to use a large amount. The beauty is that you can apply them for a sheer coverage or build them to get a full coverage.

Aaron: What would you say are two must have products?

Alisha: That is a hard one, but if I had to pick two I would say the Pressed Mineral Foundation (a pressed mineral foundation with buildable coverage) and the Total Cover Cream Foundation (an emollient cream 2-in-1 concealor and foundation). The Pressed Mineral Foundation has no talc so it is luminious, not chalky or matte looking. And the Total Cover Cream Foundation can be applied as sheer as a tint  or you can build it to a full coverage foundation.


Cover FX is sold at Sephora stores, but not all of them. For those in the Richmond area, they are sold at the Sephora at Regency. For those of you in the Cincinnati area, your best bet is to order from the Cover FX website for now. I would of course chat with Nancy at BRIDEface first so she can assist you in picking the right products. And don't foget to get the right tool for the right job. Cover FX have some amazing brushes that do very specific things. They have used technology from DuPont to help create creulty free brushes that perform amazingly! Also, if you would like to see it in print, check out Richmond Magazine's December "Mother of the Bride" shoot. I used the Total Cover Cream Foundation on our model!

So whenever you feel you are just not having luck in the area of foundation or concealors just remember what Alisha at Cover FX says, ""We have your shade!" Happy Shopping!!

BB Creams; What is the hype about?-Richmond VA Makeup Artist Aaron

So BB creams have been getting a lot of press lately. With that press seems to come a lot of confusion from the consumer. So let's take a minute to find out what a BB cream is about and if it is worth all the hype.

First, BB stands for "Beauty Balm" or "Blemish Balm". It really became popular in East and Southeast Asia during the 80's but was originally formulated in the 1950's to be used after surgery or laser procedures. The reason for their popularity in Asia was the fact that the product was a great multi-tasker. There are tons of formulas on the market, many touting anti-inflamatory or soothing properties. The ones that you will find in US stores generally combine the following benefits: a skin prep (think primer), light weight coverage (think tinted moisturizer), hydration (think light weight skincare), and anti-ageing protection (think SPF and antioxidants). Now some of the formulas are heavier on one benefit and lighter on the other, so you need to do a little research to find out which is best for you.

Even though BB creams have not been available in the US for many years, they have flooded the market and have people flocking to stores like drag queens to a foam padding sale! Clinique, Smashbox, Stila, Dr. Jart, Garnier, Maybelline, Too Faced, Estee Lauder, and Boscia are just a few of the ones out there now. The price range on these is anywhere from $12 to $40.

Now Dr. Oz raves about the Boscia one and it has a good amount of skin care properties to it. However, it is only one shade, but can read the skin to mimic your tone. I think if you have some olive tone you are OK but otherwise this one is better as a skincare product. Many makeup artists like ones from lines like Smashbox and Too Faced as they have more coverage to them and more shades to choose from. This is why you have to pay attention to ingredients and color options. Do you want one that offers a lot of hydration, or do you want one to give you nice coverage. The best way to find the one that works for you is to try one out. If you love it great! If not, pass it on to a friend or family member and try another one.

In my experience (but note, I have not tried all of them) I really like the products but do think they have some limitations. If you are on the dry side, or it is in the Winter months, I don't think they offer enough moisture and you probably would still need a moisturizer under the BB cream. But, right now (in these crazy warm Summer months) if you are normal or oily, you can probably get by using it without a separate moisturizer.

Secondly, be aware of ones that have an SPF of 50 or more. Most doctors and dermatologists agree that once you get that high of a number, the product is really no more effective (30-45 are great numbers to look for).

Thirdly, many of the BB creams will have ingredients to help make the tone and texture of the skin more even and smooth. This is often done with light reflecting agents. That may translate to "shimmer" or "sparkle". So, if you are putting a bronzer on top, you might want to try a matte bronzer instead of one with more shimmer. Remember "disco balls" are fun but can date you too!

If you are someone who requires a heavier coverage, this may not be the one and only product for you. However, it is a great way to "refresh" your SPF as most BB creams can go on over traditional foundation if you desire.

So in closing, my opinion is I like BB creams, but for the right person and the right time of year. I think they are worth the hype, as long as you are realistic about they payoff. When you need to lighten up a bit, this is a perfect product, but I don't think I would use it alone as we head into late Fall or Winter. I do think you should check one out, especially now as Summer is beating down on us. With this new phenomenon I would love to hear your thoughts. Leave me or Nancy a message on our Facebook pages (BRIDEface Richmond or BRIDEface) if you have tried one. Share your experience so others can benefit!!

Laura Mercier new radiance primer RAVE

It is certainly no secret that I am madly in love with All Things Mercier. Though it has been seven years since I left the company, I still remain loyal to her products, particularly her "flawless face" series; primer, foundation, secret camouflage, and translucent powder.
There is an addition to her family of primers and I have to say I am rather obsessed with it. Unlike her other primers, it does have a sheer tint to it, but it is by no means as much coverage as her tinted moisturizers. Worn under any foundation (I am especially fond of her creme smooth and silk creme) it imparts that "lit from within" effect (think J Lo) that so often eludes us. I felt like I had a healthy glow to my skin. Every client i have used it on, no matter their age or skin type, has looked just incredible in it.
the tricky part is finding it-it's been out of stock everywhere! i ordered mine through Nordstrom and it only took a few days.

Ask Nancy: foundation recommendations

This question comes from Julie, via facebook:
I have a quick question, and I'm asking you because you know your stuff, and I trust you. I am in need of some good foundation. But my 42-year-old skin is hard to shop for. Are there any brands/lines that you recommend?
Plus I'm on a budget...;)
I need fuller coverage (wrinkles, pores, etc...all the things I've "earned" over the years, lol). And I'm both dry and oily! yay me!

In my opinion, foundation is the very last beauty product you should scrimp on. Drugstore foundations aren't even all that cheap anymore anyway, and you can't sample the shades or formula first.
A higher end foundation will have more pigment, which means you use less product, get better coverage, and don't look like you slathered it on.
My current favorite for your concerns is Laura Mercier creme smooth foundation. It comes in a glass jar and i like to apply it with a foundation brush. You only need a little. It won't make your oily parts look greasy or make your dry parts look flaky. It gives that youthful glow and the coverage is amazing. This is what I wear when I need to look my best.
Another favorite is Jane Iredale Dream Tint - SPF 15 Tinted Moisturizer (available at Cincinnati Facial Plastic Surgery in Kenwood)It is a little less coverage so you could wear it on casual days.

reader asks for foundation recs

"Foundation! I'm in the market for a new one. What's good out there? You know I've been a Laura M. girl for a long time, but now with getting older I'm needing more coverage, more moisture and more love. Any suggestions? Chanel? Lauder? Olay? I'm open to suggestions and down to the last of my current bottle.
And also what's really best: sponge, brush or fingers for application?
Thanks!
--Krista"

Hi Krista! I assume you have been using Laura Mercier's oil free foundation? You have a few options if you want to graduate to a foundation with a little more oomph. MakeUpForever's HD foundation is amazing (you can find it at Sephora) It photographs extremely well and makes your skin appear more flawless by blurring imperfections, so it is a great choice for when you are appearing on TV. It is a medium to full coverage with a dewy finish, but feels lightweight on the skin. I like to use a sponge to apply it, and if you set with their HD powder you will further enhance the "soft focus" feature of the product.

Another foundation I especially lurve is Mercier's new creme smooth foundation. It has a very nice illuminating quality to it, which gives you a glow, and extremely great coverage (though you can always sheer it out) Mercier's celebrity artist, Matin (who just did Claire Danes in this product for the Golden Globes) recommends using a foundation brush, and after trying it that way, I was much happier than hen i used my sponge. They also have a similar powder to MUFE's HD, it is called Invisible.

Wichever you choose, I recommend using Mercier's hydrating primer underneath. It will fill in little imperfections, make your skin look smoother, and hold your makeup on longer.

Let us know how you do with your new stuff, Krista!

The Importance of the canvas

We girls are obsessed with our eyes. "I want a smokey eye." "I want my eyes to pop.""I never ever wear lip color, but I love eyeliner." "I love a super dark eye." How can you make my eyes look more blue?"

Yet you see so many people skimp on perfecting their skin. Very few of us have a flawless complexion; eventually sun exposure, stress, lack of sleep, and breakouts have their way with our face. I have most certainly had a women sit in my chair and I quickly determine they don't need a stitch of foundation,but that doesn't mean Iam not going to sculpt their face with blush, highlighter, and bronzer. Very few women place the same importance on their face as they do on their eyes. They skip foundation entirely or slap it on haphazardly.

What skilled contouring and highlighting can do to accentuate your bone structure is amazing. Color correcting ruddiness and concealing acne work wonders.

A common question I receive is "If my bridesmaids just want you to do their eyes, how much is that?"

While I love to please the client, I can't help thinking that getting half the service is really shortchanging her. What point is a beautiful smoked out eye without a juicy cheek under it? Artfully applied makeup can round out a square jawline, carve out a cheekbone, thin or shorten a nose, and minimize lines. Why should the eyes get all the glory?

(image, steph carson)

Cincinnati makeup artistry/ applying foundation; tool talk

foundation application by nannobanan on Polyvore.com

Items in this set:
TEMPTU AIRbrush Makeup System, $225
beautyblender beautyblender, $26
ERA Everyday Airbrush Foundation at HSN.com, $30
Clinique - NEW Foundation Brush - Saks.com, $21
True Match Roller Perfecting Roll On Makeup

How important is your application method and does it really make a difference? What formula you use and how much coverage you are wanting will dictate how you apply it.

For instance, a person who puts on tinted moisturizer probably wants to use her fingertips. It's already quite sheer and basically foolproof. I have also found tinted moisturizer people to be fairly low maintenance as well.

For a traditional liquid foundation, I personally prefer a sponge. I find it gives less coverage than a brush-I might go back with a brush for some one who really needs coverage-say, someone with rosacea, or broken capillaries. But overall, I feel a brush gives more coverage than most people need or want. I adore the beauty blender because it has a great shape to get into nooks a crannies and is super dense-it doesn't eat up all your expensive product. But on clients I use high quality, disposable, non-latex ones that I buy in bulk-much more hygenic.

There is a lot of hype with "spray' type foundation-I see Carmindy use them all the time-but if you are still using a sponge with it, what is the point? A gimmick, if you ask me.

The new "roller" foundation-really-? I mean, it's awesome- if your face is FLAT. It makes me so mad when companies put grbage like this on the market. How on earth do they think you are going to get that anywhere like around the nose-?

As for the new, "at home" airbrush system-it looks amazing but incredibly high maintenance. The system is $225 and the pods you snap on to spray out product are $55 each. So it is a substantial investment!

One pet peeve I have is when companies claim their foundation gives "an airbrushed finish". The only thing that gives an airbrushed finish is AIRBRUSH. The application is such a fine, pixillated mist. The difference between airbrushed foundation and traditional is much like the difference between regular television and HD TV. Your result feels sheer, appears natural, but there is full coverage.

Summary: to each her own with coverage; roller and spray foundations=marketing ploy; at home airbrush=awesome but pricey. Most of us can get a very nice result with a good, high-pigmented liquid foundation and a trusty sponge, good lighting, and judicious blending.

Using bronzer in the winter

This request comes from Sherri via our Facebook fan page and is very timely for me. we all get in our little ruts, even makeup artists. I will go for months embracing my pasty pallor, then one day I'll clean out my bathroom and rediscover a forgotten gem.

I starting wearing a touch of bronzer last week and I have had a couple people ask me what I am doing differently; that my face looks "fresher". Bronzer can be a challenge, particularly for a fairer complexion. and there are definitely a lot of Bronzer Abusers out there. The goal is not to look swarthy or unwashed, or like you spent a couple weeks in Key West. The goal is to give the skin just a little warmth. Here are a few of my favorites.

No surprise; Laura Mercier. She has a very pale shade that you don't often find in other lines, and it is not the slightest bit orange. It has an extremely subtle shimmer as well. Cargo is very similar but perhaps has a bit more sheen; too much for me but if you like the J Lo glow it's perfect. Benefit Hoola is great too; just don't use the Barbie doll-sized brush that comes inside.

Now; application.

Bronzer requires a nice fluffy brush. Most brushes that are specifically for bronzer are squat and domed, but honestly a fluffy powder brush gives a more subtle application.

Apply to the highest points of the face that would normally be touched by the sun; the cheekbones, the bridge of the nose, the chin, and a touch to the forehead. Do this is natural light and blend like crazy; less is more!

Don't stop there! If you skip blush, bronzer alone can look flat and unnatural. Pop a somewhat bright blush (maybe a blue based orchidy pink or a clear coral) on the very apple of the cheek-just a touch. Brightens up your whole face. You can even add a luminizer (I love High Beam by Benefit) to the tops of your cheekbones. I promise your girlfriends will be thinking you've been naughty with that kinda glow going on.

All products available at Sephora.

battling undereye circles

I put a shoutout on our facebook fan page asking for blog topic suggestions and had three people beg for advice with dark circles.

(Joan, Melissa, and Julie; this one's for you!)

I am a longtime insomniac, so this is a topic I know a little about. As you can see, no one is immune to this issue, even Courtenay Cox. (Sorry to do that to ya girl, but you were my first match in the google search)

-First off, sleep of course is a factor. Your skin around your eyes is so delicate that lack of sleep, illness, vitamin deficiency, and dehydration show up here first.

But there are people who heredity has "blessed" with chronic darkness under the eye. My daughter, for example, had had blue circles since she was a baby. And no, I don't put concealer on her. Yet.

-Be sure you are properly hydrating your eyes. So many people are lax about eye cream. I myself am guilty of this but I will say that when I am super vigilant about applying it morning and night I see a gigantic difference. People start asking what I am doing, why I look so "rested". So yes, it does make a difference.

I love mass market brands and I love luxury brands.

Anything from Olay to La Prairie. The main thing is just to DO IT.

-Here is the third thing-using the correct shade is perhaps the biggest hurdle!

Most people choose something too pink-why they even make concelaer in pink undertones, I shall never understand. The trick is to counteract the shade of discoloration. Most people have a blueness to their undereyes that can only be corrected with orange or salmon shades. These are not easy to find!

I recently began using Eve Pearl's concealers (pictured above) and the difference is pretty unbelievable. Rather than "masking" the circle, it cancels it out, in a much more natural way. Now it is not cheap at $35-42, but if you are someone who is sometimes mistaken as a domestic violence case, it is well worth it. Please use a brush; it truly does make a difference because too much concealer is just as bad as not enough. Conceal only the area that is dark; resist the urge to do an entire half moon under the eye. Just as cortenay above has that line of ble extending from her tear duct, that is pretty typical for most of us. Stipple on directly over the darkness, carrying into the inner corner. Blend!

Here is the extra secret weapon; the setting powder.

Laura Mercier's Secret brightening powder seems like an uneccessary indulgence, but once you try you will wonder where it's been all your life. That teensy bit of iridescence bounces away shadows and gives you a very youthful look. Apply very sparingly-again, with a brush. You will be amazed.

other tricks-

-using a subtle shimmer at the inner corners of the eyes

-using an extremely pale, sheer light blue shadow (almost invisible)on the ball of your lid

-skipping mascara on the bottom lashes (I do generally love mascara on the bottom but if you are looking extra ragged, skip it. It creates shadow and drags you down if you already look tired)

Never say never...

Longtime readers may remember that I got on my soapbox about a year ago about why I prefer traditional foundation to airbrushing. Long story short, I invested a lot of time and money about two and a half years ago into purchasing equipment and product and traveling to NYC to take classes from a highly respected leader in the field. I ended up being very frustrated by the finish and feel of the makeup, even after trying three different brands.It looked artificial and flat and felt heavy and masky. I concluded that the fact that I have been a painter interfered with my ability to embrace the medium of airbrushing; it felt less like "artistry" to me, and more like, say, spray painting a chair. I missed the preciseness of painstakingly feathering over each flaw. (That combined with the fact that my machine was heavy, unwieldy to travel with, and sounded like a Harley)

Over the last several months I have been networking long distance with several successful makeup artists who convinced me to give it another go. I found a line called Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics that performs as if it were designed by my idol Laura Mercier. Which makes sense, because it was created by a makeup artist. (Their lip tars are so splendid that I want buy every last one of them.) Goes on sheer and weightless but covers like a dream. And my new little tiny machine, that straps around my waist, runs on a battery pack, and hums pleasantly-? Perfection.

So suffice to say I have changed my mind and am fully embracing this new discovery.

I am however still experimenting with this new medium and need guinea pigs, so if you got the time, I wanna beat yer face. Email me!

I have pulled the following from the OCC site for you detail geeks!

What are the advantages of airbrush makeup?

Though not a new technology, airbrush makeup is once again in the limelight due to the advent of evolving digital media, including Digital Photography and Hi-Definition Television. The precision application offered by airbrush makeup has two major benefits that stand up to the challenges presenting makeup artists today:

1. Full Coverage, Sheer Texture: A true airbrush foundation is high in coverage, but thin in texture, offering a high-opacity or full coverage application that's dispersed as sheerly and evenly as possible. The result is perfect-looking skin acheived with a minimum of product

2. Refined Pattern: The spray dot-pattern the airbrush puts down on the skin registers less on camera than the patterns and trace lines that brushes and sponges leave behind. However invisible these marks may appear to the naked eye, they can be quite noticable when your client's face is shown in Hi-Definition close-up or in a High Resolution Digital Photo.

While other advantages include speed of application, longevity, and durability, the true advantage of airbrush makeup is the beautiful finished result it produces.

What color is your "O"-?

I love Smashbox, though I don't have a ton of it in my kit. I was recently given the "o-gloss" as a free sample at Sephora, which inspired me to go back and try The "O-Glow" I had purchased months before and had forgotten.

"O gloss" would be perfect for a bride who favors a natural lip because it has a rosy, healthy look without being a ton of color. And it is a different shade on everyone.It even seems to have a bit of a plumping effect, and I can use all the help I can get in that department. I blew through my miniature tube very quickly so I guess it's time for a full size one-make that two; one for me, one for the kit. I think they make a new one now that has more plumping properties.

The "o-glow" is supposed to flush your cheeks like you've just had an-well, you know. I don't know about that; on me, it is way too pink. It looks like I have a fever more than I have been doing something naughty. I adore a very flushed cheek, but that was a little bit much, even for me. In fact my six year old asked what that red stuff was on my face, so that can't be good. I plan to try this on a more olive skintone and see how it goes. It comes out of the tube like a clear gel but turns sort of fuschia on your cheeks and fingertips once you manipulate it. So that part is fun, I just think the undertones are a bit too blue for me and a lot of the population.

Nars apparently thinks a woman flushes more apricot when she has an orgasm, as is evidenced by their top selling blush by the same name. A much better shade for me, as it compliments by yellow undertones. It also has a little shimmer in it-it is the perfect peachy pink.

Wonder what kind of research went into formulating these shades-?

my love/hate relationship with foundation

The makeup artist I am today is completely reliant on the happy accident of working for Laura Mercier cosmetics for eight years and being fortunate enough to work personally with Laura. I joke that I used to "stalk" her; before I had my kids, I used to plan my NYC trips to visit my family around Laura's personal appearance schedule. I would just show up at Bergdorf's , Bendels, Saks, and start working. (Okay, so my regional pulled some strings first)I ended up doing over a dozen events with her this way. I remember one day at Bendel's, nobody showed up. To see makeup artist extraordinaire Laura Mercier-! But so much of their traffic is tourists and actual natives are pretty jaded about all these celebrity makeup artists. It's like every other day you have Trish McEvoy or Bobbi Brown traipsing through so you are pretty unimpressed by it all. So anyway, Laura spent the whole day giving us an inpromptu training session right there on the sales floor. She certainly could have packed up and gone home instead, but she answered every question we had, did demos on all of us, and imparted her wisdom.

For those of you unfamiliar with her background, Laura trained as a painter in Paris before going into makeup. She came to New York to launch American Elle with Steven Meisel and her career pretty much exploded after that. She created most of Madonna's most iconic looks and has done countless magazine covers and editorials. I read a column she had in Allure many years ago, and became such a fan.At that time she was doing so many covers that I could actually spot her work before checking the credits in the magazine. When her line came to Cincinnati Saks, I interviewed to launch it there, and Laura did two personal appearances at our store during my tenure. (Unfortunately one visit was the exact day I gave birth to my third child, so I missed her-!)

In the very early days of Laura Mercier Cosmetics, we were a tiny little company. We had virtually no training, but we did have national makeup artists travel in for events who had all been trained by the master. But it wasn't until I worked personally with Laura in Chicago for the forst time that I really "got" her technique. She is very hands on with her artists, and for 75% of the day she kept murmuring to me "too much coverage" (in her wonderful French accent, which I take great delight in butchering when I attempt it) She repeatedly told clients that they didn't really need foundation. Wait-isn't this retail? Aren't we supposed to take this client for all she's worth?

Finally at the end of the day, she took me aside and told me she was very pleased with my work and she loved how I had mastered "the flawless face". Laura's philosophy when her line launched was pretty revolutionary; she was the very first to have a primer; she had found on photo shoots that what a model wore under her makeup directly affected how the makeup looked and lasted on the skin, so, like the painter she is. she concluded that there should be a primer coat underneath the foundation. After all, you wouldn't paint a piece of raw wood without priming-all the paint would keep sinking in and you would use too much product. She created a very highly pigmented foundation so that she could apply a super sheer layer but still get amazing coverage. She followed this with a thick, pigmented camouflage cream to painstakingly feather over each little flaw. (maybe not for everyone, but for us perfectionists, it was a dream)

This entire story is the illustrate the frustration I feel when I see makeup artists treat foundation like spackling or a mask. I have seen some of the most gorgeous women have their features obliterated by a thick layer of makeup. I met a woman on Saturday who had so much makeup on that you couldn't even determine her ethnicity. (She had her makeup done at Bridalrama) I removed her makeup and realized how beautiful she was and how amazing her skin looked. Why would anyone put that much makeup on a luminous, even skin? I guess that is why I have had so much trouble jumping on the airbrush bandwagon. I tried-I took a class in NYC and invested a ton of money in equipment-but it doesn't feel like my medium. I don't feel painterly. I even felt like I was trying to take the easy way out, shooting a layer over the whole face instead of tackling each flaw with a teeny brush. I don't love how it looks or feels on the skin, no matter how I try.

Obviously this is a topic that hits a nerve with me, but I just wanted to share my philosophy with those of you patient enough to get through my manifesto! I do have a lot of clients inquire about airbrush and I just figured it was time to put this out there.

Happy Monday, y'all!

favorite.primer.ever.

I am on a constant quest to find a great foundation primer. When I worked for Laura Mercier (who was the first makeup artist to recognize that a primer was essential) Laura trained us to be quite liberal in the amount of product we used, and I unfortunately have retained that habit. So I go through tubes like crazy. Laura's primer is up to about $30 or more. Smashbox is about $40.
I really liked the little spraycan thing Sally Hansen came out with but it had too much iridescence. MAC's primer has the most bizarre consistency and stuff tends to slide around on it; the opposite of what a primer ought to do. Mak factor has a smashbox knockoff but it's actually quite pricey for such a teensy tube. I did the whole Monistat trick too but it feels a little unglamorous to use a "chafing cream" on your face.
Then I saw the ad for Avon's new Majix. They were promoting it a 8 bucks a pop. It is fabulous. It has the buttery slip of Smashbox, but doesn't have that weird tendency to pill up. It is not as liquidy as Laura but it really fills in pores and makes skin look smooth and evenly textured, even without foundation on top. It's like photoshop for real life. And a lttle bit goes a looong way-you can't slather it like the Laura. PLUS spf 20!!!??? Seriously buy this now, before Avon jacks the price up to 30 bucks.

Model in a bottle!

For those of you who know and love this product, you will be happy to know I will soon be retailing it from The Bridal Studio (no more getting reamed on shipping!!)I am trying to determine my initial order, so please let me know how interested you are via the comments on this blog!
Anyone who has used this is instantly a believer-it is truly the best makeup setting spray on the market.All my brides just rave about it!

Pet Peeve-heavy, matte foundation

(these are examples of "good" foundation)

The most aging thing a woman can do is wear too much foundation that looks flat and lifeless on the skin. If you check out the hottest women on the red carpet, they may have a tremendously dark smoky eye, or even red red lips, but always fresh dewy skin that looks as if it's lit from within. As someone who grew up with oily skin, I didn't always embrace the sheen, but now my opinion is that I want to see something that falls just (slightly) short of a face that looks highlighted with vaseline. If you browse through Victoria's Secret catalog, you'll see that all the models look just a little, well, sweaty. Like they've been up to something, maybe?

The key is to not coat your entire face in shimmer-just to pop out the areas you want to accentuate; the browbones, the inner corner of the eye, the tops of the cheekbones...sometimes the bridge of the nose and the chin, depending on bone structure.

I usually ask my brides to just carry blotting papers on their wedding day if they are prone to an overy greasy forehead or nose;piling on powder can create a cakey look.

Try some shimmery powders or creams for highlighting-but make sure they're pretty high quality-lower end brands tend to have a more glittery look, not the sophisticated, highbeam effect you're looking for.

Also look into using a tinted moisturizer instead of a foundation-it will even you out and tone down discoloration without the heavy look you can sometimes get with foundation. If you just feel too "nekkid" in tinted you can either spot conceal problem areas on top of the moisturizer, or mix a little foundation in with the tinted-gives you a bit more coverage but still the moist glow. Another thing you can do is sheer out your favorite foundation by using a damp sponge.

Foundation is not supposed to oblierate every pore or cover every flaw-if you see areas that still need a little help after applying your base, feather on a fairly dry consistency concealer. that way you're not wearing a full mask over your whole face, you're just concentrating on "problem" areas, such as blemishes, scars, redness, or broken capillaries.

Laura Mercier mineral foundation

I had the chance to use this on several clients on Friday and I really like it. I tried very hard to jump on the mineral foundation bandwagon a few years ago; I know that so many people adore bare escentials but I just couldn't hang with how cakey, flat, and dry it looked. Plus the makeup artist who sold it to me recommended using it under the eyes as concealer. Good idea, if your goal is to add ten years to your face.
I used Laura's foundation primer under this, let it dry completely, and then buffed the powder in with their new finishing brush. This product has a luminosity that I really didn't expect, and very good coverage. I would never use it for wedding makeup, but for a super quick"mommy face"; sure.Especially for someone super oily. I recently read an article in Allure that debunks the whole notion of mineral makeups being more beneficial for your skin, which makes sense. Usually if something seems too good to be true, then you have your answer.
Being a huge fan of a dewy look, I would probably recommend Laura's tinted moisturizer over this product, but there are still some matte lovers out there who would really dig this.
Mercier also has some new plumping lip glosses that look and feel wonderful; again, being one of the thinnest lipped people on the planet, I am dubious as to whether plumpers actually work, but I am addicted to the tingly sensation they give.
I will be working a national Artist Event for Laura Mercier downtown at Saks on Friday May 11th-if you are interested in trying out their products, call 513 421 6800 x366 to reserve an appointment.(I worked for Mercier for over eight years and still about 90% of my kit is her stuff; love it and her!)