Friday, February 26, 2010

The Importance of the canvas


We girls are obsessed with our eyes. "I want a smokey eye." "I want my eyes to pop.""I never ever wear lip color, but I love eyeliner." "I love a super dark eye." How can you make my eyes look more blue?"

Yet you see so many people skimp on perfecting their skin. Very few of us have a flawless complexion; eventually sun exposure, stress, lack of sleep, and breakouts have their way with our face. I have most certainly had a women sit in my chair and I quickly determine they don't need a stitch of foundation,but that doesn't mean Iam not going to sculpt their face with blush, highlighter, and bronzer. Very few women place the same importance on their face as they do on their eyes. They skip foundation entirely or slap it on haphazardly.

What skilled contouring and highlighting can do to accentuate your bone structure is amazing. Color correcting ruddiness and concealing acne work wonders.

A common question I receive is "If my bridesmaids just want you to do their eyes, how much is that?"

While I love to please the client, I can't help thinking that getting half the service is really shortchanging her. What point is a beautiful smoked out eye without a juicy cheek under it? Artfully applied makeup can round out a square jawline, carve out a cheekbone, thin or shorten a nose, and minimize lines. Why should the eyes get all the glory?
(image, steph carson)

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

What am I lusting after?

my wishlistTo be honest, I plan to go get all of this except the $245 Clarisonic toy. Yes, I know it is supposed to infuse your undereye with serum and make you look 25. Too rich for my blood.
Rest assured that I will likely come home with twice what I intended to purchase.Unfortunately they know me at Sephora and MAC and always get me to buy too much.
I have been dreaming of NARS Orgasm Illuminator since it launched; I have the iconic powder blush (doesn't everyone?) and the multiple stick as well and am obsessed with both. One for me, one for the kit. Everyone raves about the Urban Decay and I really want all three shades of this eye primer. I am dying to get Laura Mercier's new salmon concealer; they were out at Saks last I checked, which only makes me want it more. The MakeUp Forever set is an amazing value and looks great for travel. (travel; what's that?)
A lot of people ask where I learn about new products. I spend a lot of time on Pro Makeup forums. I basically distrust most magazines for product recommendations. Same goes for most beauty blogs. Most of these bloggers are given free product to try, so that completely destoys their credibility for me. (ATTN:Cosmetic companies! Despite my high and mighty attitude, I CAN BE BOUGHT. Call me)
my wishlist by nannobanan on Polyvore.com


Tuesday, February 23, 2010

Makeup Bag Monday; Amanda



Amanda is a wedding photographer whom I know mainly through Facebook, but I hope we have the chance to work together very soon!

Her day-to-day routine is similar to mine; she is a work at home mom during the week, photographer on weekends.

She has skin concerns (don't we all?); sensitivity, prone to breakouts, extreme combination type. She commented that she feels foundation only seems to exacerbate the issue.

She did not mention what skincare she is using, but I recommend the starter kit in Patricia Wexler below. Exfoliating regularly and using the salicylic pads will make the pores appear smaller and make her skin look more fresh. It will also make her foundation go on more nicely and wear longer. Her products adress oily skin and adult acne but don't overdry like many systems can.

I also think she needs to incorporate a primer under her foundation; this will help mask any problems with large pores and oil breakthrough, (especially on those long days of shooting weddings)

I do not see a setting powder; if she set her foundation with a puff and a good translucent loose powder she would have a more polished finish plus better longevity.


Love the Hoola bronzer, but she also needs to pop a blush on top to bring out her cheekbones and brighten her face; she has beautiful bone structure.

Of course I applaud the lash curler; it's the quickest non-makeup thing you can do to look refresed and bright-eyed (other than caffeine!)

There is a nice collection of eye colors here, but mainly all neutral.(I see a couple of lonely lavenders back there but i suspect they are largely neglected.) I would love to see Amanda incorporate shades that would provide contrast with her big brown eyes; a sapphire blue eyeliner, or a deep burgundy lid; or a wash of khaki or olive perhaps? (TIP: if busting outta your browns scares you, use color blended into your neutrals to get you used to the idea)

Amanda has gorgeous full lips, so the beigy gloss is a nice choice if you don't want to look like you are "all lips". (There is definitely something to be said for not making too much of a statement with your makeup when you are working a wedding)
I am trying to persuade Amanda to come in a play makeup with me IRL, so we will be sure to post pics of our session!







Cincinnati Makeup Artist/Robyn; married!!!





I got some images the other day from a wedding I did last summer and just had to share right away. Robyn let me do do looks on her; a more "natural" look for the ceremony, and then a slightly vampier feel for the reception. Don't you love the feather fascinator? Such a fun 20's feel, with the finger waves and deep smoky blue eyelid!
Robyn's fabulous vendor team included Kevin Ford, Taylor Stewart, Aviva Events, Lifetime Films, and Jennifer Nally.
And of course, the Hilton Netherland!

































































Wednesday, February 17, 2010

Finishing Touches Trunk Show; March 14th!


Would you like to play with birdcage veils and hair accessories for your wedding? Pin Me Up Couture will have both of their designers on hand, as well as one of the most in-demand bridal hair gurus in the city, Jennifer Nally to help you find the perfect hair look for your Big Day.
We will also have Tracey Sutton of Tbeads and Nicolette of Oskar and Simone, showing you how to best accessorize yours and your bridesmaids' gowns with custom jewelry.
RSVP via Facebook!
March 14 at The Bridal Studio; 610 Main St. 12pm-4pm.
(image by studio3Z.)

Tuesday, February 16, 2010

Jasmine for BRIDEface/Fahema married!!










































So I stumbled upon the website and blog of Fyrefly and somehow spent over an hour there. Nathan is a fabulous writer as well as being a great photographer. Time to add yet another URL to my google reader. I cannot wait to work with him!

This looked to be a very fun wedding. I am sort of obsessed with her hairbob, and Jasmine rocked out her eyes. She is absolutely gorgeous!














Monday, February 15, 2010

Makeup Bag Monday; Mandi WEDDING EDITION!



I met with Mandi the other night to give her a lesson on how to do her own wedding makeup. (She is getting married in Alabama and is having trouble finding a makeup artist) She is a dear friend of one of my favorite brides from last year, Kelly. So the diagnosis is a bit different in that I am recommending items she specifically needs for her wedding, not just everday life.

Like our Makeup Bag Monday subject last week, Mandi owns a lot of Prescriptives, a great line that is unfortunately discontinued. Mandi has a ton of wonderful products,but she sheepishly admitted that she uses very little of it. Most of her loose shadows were still sealed! The brushes are good quality. She has a lot of Bare Escentuals; fine for everyday (I am not really a fan of "mineral" foundation in general, but that is another post entirely) but I recommended a liquid foundation for her wedding; it photographs better and provides more flawless coverage. She should definitely wear a primer under the foundation as well; wedding makeup is ALL about durability!

I steered her towards a different undereye concealer; hers is way too yellow for her grey-blue discoloration under her eye; she needs a more salmony-orange color.

She still has her "magic" powder in Prescriptives to set the foundation.

Here is the plan for the eyes.(Mandi's sari will have shades of deep pink/burgundy)

I really like to start out with a creme base for bridal makeup(for longevity) and also when I want to build intensity of color. I chose Benefit's creaseless creme shadow in Stiletto (it is shown below in another shade; I tried without success to find an image of the aubergine shade on the interwebs) This is all over the lid. I used Laura Mercier rose on the browbone, and used Smashbox jetset to line top, bottom, and inside the waterline. In the crease/outer corner, I used one of Mandi's Bare Escentuals-a very deep coppery brown (whose name eludes me)

Mandi will have Kelly apply her individual lashes; I always recommend black adhesive.

Mandi has a lot of beautiful lip colors in her collection; I chose a sparkly burgundy one of hers that was nearly gone, so I selected a new one to replace it.

Of course Mandi should seal the look with Model in a Bottle!


Makeup Bag Monday; Marti

This is really one impressive assortment. Except for the fact that what appears to be her one her favorite lines (Prescriptives) has been discontinued. So she will be needing to find a new brand for her foundation, concealer, and loose powder. I am a big fan of value sets, particularly when you are new to a line and wanting to try out several items. This is such a great deal. The set I chose comes with tinted moisturizer because I don't feel Marti needs foundation everyday; she has really nice skin. This set also has concealer, two great brushes, loose powder, and primer. (Marti had mentioned she wasn't thrilled with the "slippery" feel of the Smashbox)
The Pond's moisturizer...Marti says she has been using it forever. But you know, I just think you should get some active ingredients in your moisturizer, and at the very least, spf. Knowing she prefers a creamy feel, I am going to steer her towards Kiehl's Abbysine cream with spf 23. Diorshow Iconic mascara? Love it to death. Expensive, yes. But wonderful.
The liquid liner? Great; very versatile (you can achieve a tiny, thin line, or a more dramatic thick one)She should buy a black one for evening though; hers is brown.
Her eyeshadows look to be good, "safe" shades. I would love to see her add in some burgundies and plums to give her eye color more contrast.

Very nice collection of brushes; she could use a good crease brush to give her eye more depth.
Love the blush-however, it might have too much "pop" on its own in the winter; she could add in a nice bronzer to wake up her skin and then add the blush on her apples.
Lastly, Marti mentioned she doesn't do much with lips-maybe throws on a balm if she thinks about it-I recommended Benefit Posie tint because it stays on forever but feels like you have nothing on. Should brighten up her whole face!



Thursday, February 11, 2010

Cincinnati commercial makeup artist/recent catalog shoot/Isle of Skye/Robin McKerrell

I have been fortunate to be rather busy during my "off-season". I have been doing a few shoots with photographer Robin McKerrell, and on Monday we did some work for Isle of Skye which sells beautiful cashmere pieces. The model was Elizabeth Ann Schulze and she was fabulous. Here are just a couple shots from that day. I think the client will be very pleased!
The thing about models, as opposed to us mere mortals, is that they seems much more able to morph into a totally different look with makeup and hair changes. The first shot I saw of Elizabeth had more of a "grunge" feel but put her in these clothes and she's an overnight socialite. Go figure!















Wednesday, February 10, 2010

covering tattoos





I am finding that fewer people want to conceal their tattoos than when I started really doing weddings frequently. Sure, once in a while you get someone who no longer likes something she got years ago (I once had an ultra conservative attorney with a Rolling Stones logo on her breast; she wanted it GONE) or a bride who wants every one of her bridesmaids to be sporting no ink. But ironically, now that I have my airbrush, I am hardly ever called upon for this anymore. Most women are proud of what they've had done and want to show it-or sometimes they wear a wrap or jacket over it in the church and reveal it for the reception.
I will say that DIY tattoo covering is very seldom effective and usually the products you have to buy are equal to the price of hiring a pro. You need highly pigmented products, and a variety of shades that are not found at Walgreens'.
Results can vary, depending on the size and coloration of the work.
With a very black, raised piece, such as a Celtic arm band that has been touched up several times, the results can be less than ideal, due to the texture under the color-corrected area.
The black can be covered but the skin is still raised.
I once covered a bridesmaid's entire upper arm and shoulderby hand-the bride was not fond of the nude reclining woman piece, and the woman's parents were unaware she even HAD a tattoo. That took over an hour but I was extremely proud of the result.
I airbrush a series of waterproof colors, alternating with special setting powders, sealing the whole thing with a makeup setting spray.






Tuesday, February 9, 2010

Cincinnati makeup artist/Emily and her bump pics







Emily is pretty much the dream client. I did her wedding four years ago-? (I think that's about right)

Then she did boudoir pics with me. Then she asked me to do a group makeup lesson at the studio for her and her girlfriends. Now she and her hubby are expecting and naturally they have to document that. Tine took these fabulous shots. (as well as the wedding and b-pics)


Monday, February 8, 2010

Makeup Bag Monday; Linda


Today we have a long-distance makeup bag submission, all the way from California! Linda is Alison's mom and she tells me she is in a bit of a rut.



I am going to start with the Dramatically Different Moisturizer. I don't want to hurt the feelings of any loyal Clinique users out there, but DDL is as basic and bare bones as you can get as far as a moisturizer. Using this, particularly when you are over 40, is, in my humble opinion, like using a ten year old computer. You owe it to yourself to use a product with more active ingredients that is going to address issues such as lack or firmness, fine lines, and discoloration. DDL was formulated decades ago, and has seen no upgrades in that time, not even adding sunscreen!


Linda would be much better off investing the Olay Pro line, at the very least, their moisturizer with spf30. This way she is getting antioxidants and firming properties. She can also get their night creme with retinol to address discoloration.
Linda is just using the powder to even out her skintone, reserving a Clinique foundation for special occasions. I would rather see to do a dewier finish, like Laura Mercier tinted moisturizer. This will also give her more spf. She should pitch this blush because she complains it never stays on. I chose a Bobbi Brown creme rouge for her that can also be used on the lips.
The lipstick looks fine.
The under concealer looks fine and she has a ton of it. She has a quickliner in brown and a Chanel liner in navy.I chose a cream liner to use with a small bent brush because i would like to see her phase out the pencils and if she were using the cream i think she would start to have more fun with it-you have the versality of making the line thin, Marilyn Monroe, or smudgy. Blue will make her eyes sparkle more too. Of couse I would love to see her do tight line with Laura's cake liner, in navy, along with a flat liner brush. Alie must have hooked her on the fiberwig mascara., which is fine. Good to see that eyelash curler!
She is using the powder brow filler; she may want to add in a clear brow gel to set that and to groom the brows a bit.
Rather than using that neutral powder shade lash to brow, Linda would be better off with a creamy shadow base; it will give a much smoother look to the lid and will match her skintone better. I chose Laura Mercier in wheat.

Friday, February 5, 2010

Valentine makeups; reserve your spot!!


February 13 and 14 we will be offering hair and makeup at the studio for your Valentine dates! 20% of the proceeds will benefit Go Red for Women so you can support a great cause while getting gorgeous.

Jennifer Nally will be on hand for any hair look you can dream up, and I will be airbrushing, browing, and lashing it up. Email me for your appontment and more info!!

Thursday, February 4, 2010

phone trouble

If you are trying to call me I am very sorry; my new phone will arrive today and for the past 48 hours I have been phone-less. You can shoot me an email in the meantime...
Also! In the process of trying to resuscitate my phone, I inadvertently wiped out my Outlook calendar. I have been clutching my stomach and moaning ever since. I am not so good with the technology thing.
So I am slowly trying to recover those appontments that I have scheduled in the past month. (Anything I booked prior to Dec is in there, as are weddings.) If you and I made an appointment VIA TELEPHONE I need to hear from you so I do not stand you up. Yikes.

Wednesday, February 3, 2010

Cincinnati makeup artistry/ applying foundation; tool talk

foundation application
foundation application by nannobanan on Polyvore.com





How important is your application method and does it really make a difference? What formula you use and how much coverage you are wanting will dictate how you apply it.

For instance, a person who puts on tinted moisturizer probably wants to use her fingertips. It's already quite sheer and basically foolproof. I have also found tinted moisturizer people to be fairly low maintenance as well.

For a traditional liquid foundation, I personally prefer a sponge. I find it gives less coverage than a brush-I might go back with a brush for some one who really needs coverage-say, someone with rosacea, or broken capillaries. But overall, I feel a brush gives more coverage than most people need or want. I adore the beauty blender because it has a great shape to get into nooks a crannies and is super dense-it doesn't eat up all your expensive product. But on clients I use high quality, disposable, non-latex ones that I buy in bulk-much more hygenic.

There is a lot of hype with "spray' type foundation-I see Carmindy use them all the time-but if you are still using a sponge with it, what is the point? A gimmick, if you ask me.

The new "roller" foundation-really-? I mean, it's awesome- if your face is FLAT. It makes me so mad when companies put grbage like this on the market. How on earth do they think you are going to get that anywhere like around the nose-?

As for the new, "at home" airbrush system-it looks amazing but incredibly high maintenance. The system is $225 and the pods you snap on to spray out product are $55 each. So it is a substantial investment!
One pet peeve I have is when companies claim their foundation gives "an airbrushed finish". The only thing that gives an airbrushed finish is AIRBRUSH. The application is such a fine, pixillated mist. The difference between airbrushed foundation and traditional is much like the difference between regular television and HD TV. Your result feels sheer, appears natural, but there is full coverage.
Summary: to each her own with coverage; roller and spray foundations=marketing ploy; at home airbrush=awesome but pricey. Most of us can get a very nice result with a good, high-pigmented liquid foundation and a trusty sponge, good lighting, and judicious blending.

Tuesday, February 2, 2010

Cincinnati makeup/Christy, married!

These images come from the remarkable Neysa Ruhl.
We had so many beautiful weddings together last year and I know I am always going to get such great beauty shots back from her.
Christy had a gorgeouys baby girl in September and much of the morning was spent with the entire wedding party fawning over her; that is one loved baby!
I loved that Christy wasn't afaraid of a little drama and the way this smoky slate blue pops on her eyes makes me wonder; why the hate for blue eye shadow? Discuss.














































































Monday, February 1, 2010

Makeup Bag Monday-Amy

Today we have the lovely Amy Scalia of Cincy Chic opening her makeup bag to us.
She has a good assortment of brushes, both high-end and low. She has several by POSH(reviewed here) which are an excellent value for your money.

I applaud Amy for having an eyelash curler, but it does look like she is in need of a replacement; they lose their shape after repeated squeezings and just from being tossed around in your bag and drawer. She has a lot of random eyeshadow pallettes but only uses a few from each. My solution is to get a zpalette. Here's what you do if you are a mad scientist type like me: buy a plug-in mug warmer or candle warmer. Put your compact on there for a minute or two. Use a metal nail file to (gently!) pry the pan out once the glue is melted. This handy pallette will hold any shape or size and is totally customizable.
She has a very nice foundation and undereye concealer from Jane Iredale; no issue there.
A bronzer from Arbonne, and two very nifty Stila pencils with three items in one; eye pencil, smudger, and eyeshaow highlighter on a sponge tip. Her blush seems a bit dull to me. My suggestion is a brighter, blue based shade to play up her eyes and pop her pretty cheekbones. she can apply her bronzer first (see our latest vlog, ) and pop the "opera" on her apples. I know ,I sound like a broken record, but she needs Laura Mercier cake liner and flat liner brush to tight-line her upper, inner lash line. Actually, everybody does.
Amy does use individual lashes from Makeup Forever when she is attending an event (which is constantly!) so I was duly impressed by that; those are not easy! Z(Come to think of it, that would make a good future tutorial...)
I also encouraged her to reach for her copper eyeshadows more often for constrast with her green eyes. She also needs a brow pencil to define her arches a bit, and lastly, elf makes a divine cream highlighter, and at $1 a pop, you can afford the whole collection! Use on the inner corners of the eyes, browbones, and tops of cheekbones. Shopping board, below (cause I'm fancy like that.)

amy
amy by nannobanan on Polyvore.com